Over a thousand shouting fans crowded the gorgeous Place de la Concorde for a glimpse of their favorite stars during Paris Fashion Week menswear on Friday, with some even risking their lives in snarled traffic.
David Beckham, Naomi Campbell, J-Hope, and Jimin of the Korean band BTS were among the show’s VIP guests, and their bodyguards worked for the crowd like salmon swimming upstream.
Kim Jones, the head designer for men at Dior, paid tribute inside to Yves Saint Laurent, who, at the age of 21, took over the house of Dior as couturier after Christian Dior’s untimely passing in 1957.
Highlights from the AW 2023–2024 collections are as follows:
YSL: AN HOMAGE
Kim Jones took cues for his menswear line from the womenswear above collection, which had a similar dichotomy between masculine and feminine elements and between traditional British tailoring and more elaborate couture.
Jones captured this ebb and flow, showcasing gender-neutral, rounded forms and low waistlines. Suits left unbuttoned and allowed to unfold into a trapeze shape were popular, as were white knit sweaters with the sleeves ripped off to make them flap like a cape.
Jones prepared for the test. Saint Laurent is credited with creating the trapeze silhouette in his first collection, which eschewed Dior’s tightened waists and extended fabrics in favor of more fluid designs in which the body disappeared.
Some of Jones’s designs, like the modern marine sailor top, were taken directly from the company’s archives in 1958. Yet this magnificent performance was about so much more than paying tribute.
Following modern sheer organza vests with tiered banding, the shoes had a three-dimensional print and an aggressively feminine appearance. One embroidered pearl coat’s off-the-shoulder cut conjured images of a slouching rebel and a blossoming flower.
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DIOR’S STARS, THESPIANS
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PAUL SMITH CHANGES CENTURIES
Smith studied the past to create a reflective installation blended with London in the 1970s and the 1870s. A coat brilliantly illustrated this with a quilted body and a checkered cape. If it had come with a pipe, it looked like it was made on Baker Street, where Sherlock Holmes lived.