Dior Mania and K-pop Rule Menswear at Paris Fashion Week

Over a thousand shouting fans crowded the gorgeous Place de la Concorde for a glimpse of their favorite stars during Paris Fashion Week menswear on Friday, with some even risking their lives in snarled traffic.

David Beckham, Naomi Campbell, J-Hope, and Jimin of the Korean band BTS were among the show’s VIP guests, and their bodyguards worked for the crowd like salmon swimming upstream.

Kim Jones, the head designer for men at Dior, paid tribute inside to Yves Saint Laurent, who, at the age of 21, took over the house of Dior as couturier after Christian Dior’s untimely passing in 1957.
Highlights from the AW 2023–2024 collections are as follows:

YSL: AN HOMAGE

Saint Laurent’s debut collection for Christian Dior was shown to the public in 1958. The designer attracted tens of thousands of adoring followers worldwide, who filled the streets with their screams. Even after 65 years, certain things remain the same.

Kim Jones took cues for his menswear line from the womenswear above collection, which had a similar dichotomy between masculine and feminine elements and between traditional British tailoring and more elaborate couture.

Jones captured this ebb and flow, showcasing gender-neutral, rounded forms and low waistlines. Suits left unbuttoned and allowed to unfold into a trapeze shape were popular, as were white knit sweaters with the sleeves ripped off to make them flap like a cape.

Jones prepared for the test. Saint Laurent is credited with creating the trapeze silhouette in his first collection, which eschewed Dior’s tightened waists and extended fabrics in favor of more fluid designs in which the body disappeared.

Some of Jones’s designs, like the modern marine sailor top, were taken directly from the company’s archives in 1958. Yet this magnificent performance was about so much more than paying tribute.

Following modern sheer organza vests with tiered banding, the shoes had a three-dimensional print and an aggressively feminine appearance. One embroidered pearl coat’s off-the-shoulder cut conjured images of a slouching rebel and a blossoming flower.

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DIOR’S STARS, THESPIANS

Celebrities, art, hysteria, beauty, and wafting perfume combined to make Dior’s exhibition an experience unlike any other. Beginning with stunning cinematic performances by Gwendoline Christie and Robert Pattinson delivering poetry extracts, the Dior collection was shown in rapid succession.

“I am truly so happy to be here at the Dior show,” Christie told AP. “It’s no surprise that Kim Jones is one of our greatest living current designers that we have. I’m also fortunate because he’s a very old friend.”

Despite being the star of the Dior show and “Game of Thrones,” Christie was flustered when the press quickly abandoned her upon the arrival of BTS’s Jimin, who was just introduced as a Dior brand ambassador.

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PAUL SMITH CHANGES CENTURIES

Smith studied the past to create a reflective installation blended with London in the 1970s and the 1870s. A coat brilliantly illustrated this with a quilted body and a checkered cape. If it had come with a pipe, it looked like it was made on Baker Street, where Sherlock Holmes lived.

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